Castles, and TARDIS, and MOJO, Oh My!

Okay, so I was stretching for this last title, but the kids always like me to fashion one each trip in that classic manner, and it's the best I could come up with as bags are being packed/stuffed, tube cards returned, and time is running short before we need to head out on our Heathrow Express to begin our long journey home.

Yesterday, we all agreed over our last dinner in London (a late, post-show Indian spot, which allowed us one final fix of that great food in a lovely restaurant just off Piccadilly Circus -still serviing dinner after 10:00), was one of our favorite days of the vacation.   We often will do a "top five moments" sort of recap at the end of each vacation, and this year we shared many top moments.  It's always nice when on everyone's list are both the first and last days of a vacation, and that was the case for us on this holiday.

When I finally convinced Dana that trying to cram TWO castles into our six hours in Cardiff would be too ambitious, our day trip  came together beautifully.  We once again hopped on our train just a minute before it rollled out of the station (intentionally this time, as we chose the Hilton Paddington for our  final three nights for just that very reason!), enjoyed the gorgeous countryside of England and then Wales, as the train's two hour travel time gave us time to nap a little, read a little (Daniel has consumed the entire Hunger Games series on this trip, finishing the last few pages when we returned to the hotel after midnight last night), and sightsee (though passively by looking out a train window) a little.

We arrived in Cardiff at about 9:30 and headed to the Cardiff Castle, which was our first stop for the day.  As soon as you get off the train and see signs in Welsh, you have to smile.  While everyone we encountered spoke English, both languages are printed on every sign, and I imagine most residents speak them both.  We opted for a guided tour of the castle to maximize our time and education, but also enjoyed exploring the grounds with our audio tour when we had a bonus 30 minutes or so before picking up our City Bus tour, which would take us around Cardiff (in a guided, hop on/hop  off manner; these tours are popular all over the world for a reason) at 11:50.

Have fun "storming the castle" - the weather couldn't make up its mind, but we had more sun than rain throughout the day.

Though the castle has been around for centuries (first built in the last 900's), the current interior design was done by the family that last owned it in the 1800's.  

The children's nursery was completed in a nursery rhyme scheme, where every corner of the room celebrated the authors and stories their father (who spoke and read 7 languages) admired.  Since he wanted his children to be proficient in multiple languages, he hired four nannies/teachers who spoke four different languages and asked that they only speak to the children in those languages.  

It was quite a steep climb up to the top of the "keep" (even scarier going down!) but we all eventually made it.

The kids misbehaved, so we had to make a public spectacle of them.

And the view from the top.

That's Dana up there, though the light makes it difficult to see - still thought it was a dramatic shot :)

After our time in Cardiff Castle, we took the bus for just the first few informative stops before getting off in Cardiff Bay for the... drum roll, please... Dr. Who Experience!  This was something Daniel had been anticipating since we set off on the trip, and he had to be very patient, as we switched the time we would take our trip to Cardiff several times before determining that January 2nd was the day.

Despite all that anticipation, the place didn't disappoint.  There is a huge BBC studio that was built here several years ago, and it used to film both Dr. Who and much of the new Sherlock series (where the "permanent set" of 221 B must be located).  While the studio is only periodically open for tours, the tour guide's reference to the lovely Mr. Benedict Cumberbatch was enough to make Maddie start planning a future trip.

The "experience" consists of a 25 minute walk through a Dr. Who style adventure, complete with special effects and video, followed by as much time as you want to explore two stories of exhibits, everything from costumes to villains to every TARDIS design that has been used in the decades the show has been on the air.

After we finished up in Dr. Who land, we "hopped on" for the rest of our tour, which was now empty but for one other couple on the top deck with us.  This time we had an audio tour, which worked really well, timing the information about each thing we passed just as we passed them; it was quite impressive.

A view from the last row of the top deck of our city tour bus, as we passed some old building important for something... can't quite remember what now :)

As we got back to Cardiff central station in time to take the 3:55 train back to London, Daniel gave a satisfied thumbs up that the day was all he hoped it would be.  Two hours later we would pull into Paddington station, giving us just enough time to freshen up before heading for the tube to Piccadilly and our evening show.

While MOJO was very different than the typical theater fare we seek out, it was compelling, funny, disturbing and brilliantly acted.  A highlight for Maddie occurred before the show even started, when she went downstairs to use the "loo."  When she returned, hands shaking and heart pounding, she breathlessly explained how she had run into Sam Claflin, the actor best known for playing Finnick in The Hunger Games films.  She was composed enough to gracefully approach him, tell him she admired his work, extend her hand and introduce herself.  She tells us he was gracious and told her it was nice to meet her.  So even though Dana was not amenable to stand outside the stage door at 10:00 waiting for a glimpse of Rupert Grint or Ben Wishaw, at least Maddie got her brush with fame by meeting an actor just there to enjoy the show along with the rest of us.

And with that, I will bid you Cheerio!  Thank you for sharing our latest adventures with us.  

Day at the Museums

Despite the late night for New Year's Eve, we had all promised to get an early(ish) start today, so we could check off the last two must items on our list:  the National History Museum for Maddie and the Churchill War Rooms for Dana.  With tomorrow,our last day of vacation, devoted to a day trip to Cardiff (followed by an evening of theater at one of the hottest shows in town - MOJO - starring all sorts of British actors (from Ben Wishaw to Rupert Grint to the guy who plays Merlin ;) who have the kids beside themselves with excitement, we knew this was our last London day, so we were committed to making the most of it.

After a lovely breakfast overlooking the station, we headed off to South Kensington to our destination. When we emerged from the tunnels beneath museum row, we were greeted by a particularly rainy London day.  The weather coupled with the fact that it was a holiday gave everyone the idea to head to the museum, apparently, so we were greeted wtih a line outside the doors.  Still, I'm always somewhat heartened to see a line for a museum, so I just enjoyed ogling the beautiful architecture and waited for our turn to enter.

The kids also found the building quite impressive

Of the many ice skating rinks in the city, this one has the best location by far!

Despite the rain drops on my lens, I still think this photo captures some of the glory that is the central room of the National History Museum.  Magnificent!

Most of the museums in London are free, leading Daniel to wonder later in the day how "they" could afford to make the museum so nice.   I have been to some amazing museums in my life, but this one is extraordinary.  The setting alone is special, then you add the fact that it is a working museum, where scientists work in the Darwin Center, a cocoon shaped interactive building where all of Darwin's specimens are housed and scientists continue to collect and classify more of them, and you have an astonishing place.

The other thing I love is how clever the curators/designers were in setting up the whole place.  The dinosaur room, for instance, is a big draw, so they have ingeniously engineered it so that the exhibits are on the first floor, while the dinosaurs are suspended in the air.  This means the visitors can walk on an elaborate scaffold/ catwalk sort of thing to be at eye level with the dinosaurs, while the last round of visitors check out the exhibits below - such a fascinating and effective use of the space.

A glimpse at the clever engineering

While one could certainly spend days here, we had two museums on our agenda for the day, so we hit the highlights - the dinosaurs, the cocoon, the Darwin Center (which included an awesome 45 minute interactive movie), and Lucy (who Dana thinks is "sort of cute")

Maddie poses with Darwin

and with Lucy (or what remains of her)

Every detail matters; the ceiling is covered with different types of plants... 

and each column features a different animal.   Just breathtaking.

When we left museum #1, we took the tube to Westminster and emerged in the midst of the New Year's Day parade (which we didn't realize was happening at all, let alone at that stop).  We were first greeted by Beatles' tunes, which quickly turned to an announcement of the Dr. Who crew.   Daniel was beyond excited and generously told us that we were "the best parents ever," as if we had some magincal way of knowing to get off the tube at that exact moment.

Daniel had a better view of the TARDIS than I did, but I just enjoy taking photos of all of the intrepid Brits going about their business in the rain.  Having joined them these past two weeks, I have to say it's a pretty wonderful lifestyle.

Once we got off the main drag, we headed down an empty street to the Churchill War Room.  However,it, too, was busy (though not as busy as the National History Museum or the parade, of course). 

Mom and Dad, who traveled to London last September, gave us the tip to check out this museum, and it was a great suggestion.  On the way over, Daniel pointed out that he prefers museums that are devoted to just one thing as he tends to get overwhelmed in a museum as big as the National History Museum.  He certainly got his wish, as Churchill's War Rooms are devoted to that great man, and, especially, the time he spent leading England's efforts in WWII.  Fascinating, fascinating stories.

Daniel gets serious about the war effort, as plotted out on maps (left just as they were)

It's always disconcerting to walk into a building when it's light outside and walk out in the total darkness.  When you're emerging from an underground bunker, it's particularly odd/creepy, which is what happened after we had spent a couple of hours with Churchill.  

Since it was nearly 6:00, and we had the premiere of Sherlock Holmes to catch back at the hotel at 9:00, we headed through Trafalgar Square and in search of a place to have dinner.  We settled on Nando's, which was apparently a popular plan for New Year's Day, as the place was packed and they were "out" of several items.  Still, it served our needs and we were back "home" and settled in for the exciting premiere.

When Maddie realized - along with the rest of the world - that Sherlock would "live" on January 1st, at least for those in London, she was beside herself with excitment.  Watching the show in the city where it is set was quite thrilling indeed.  Seeing so many of the landmarks we have been enjoying these past two weeks made watching the show an even more enjoyable experience.  What a fine way to wrap up our last full day in London.

Tomorrow we are off to Cardiff for Dr. Who and castles.   Friday, we head to the airport and our flight back home.  I'm hopeful I will be abe to write one final blog entry before we head back to the states.  Until then...

Perfect Timing in Paddington

Yesterday's agenda was relatively chill:  check out of one hotel and move across town - with all of our luggage and bags, via the tube - to the Hilton at Paddington station.  While our rooms (the Hilton didn't have one room big enough for all of us - they aren't so much with the rooms for 4 here, we've found, but they were able to give us 2 rooms for not much more than we were paying for 1) were not ready when we arrived, we were able to unload our bags, take a beverage break in the "executive lounge," which looks over Paddington and is also where breakfast is served each morning and head over to 221 B Baker Street and Oxford Street, our two immediate destinations.  Today was a day of luck and skill, as we managed to catch tubes and taxis when we needed them most and arrive to most of our destinations just under the wire :)

Waiting for our train in the Aldgate station, which has been in continuous operation since the 1860's!

A view of Paddington from the Hilton

Our first stop was a late lunch at Speedy's, a nondescript little deli diner made famous by its use - and appearance - in BBC's latest incarnation of the Sherlock Holmes series (which premieres tonight in London, for those who are not aware of the excitement brewing on this side of the pond).  We arrived at an off time so only had to wait a few minutes for a tiny table in the tiny "restaurant" where locals vie with Cumberbatch enthusiasts for the food and scarce tables.  

This door (used for the entrance of 221 B Baker appears in every episode, as does the awning next door, which is why it is duly important for those who love the show as we do.  Apparently the only people who love the show quite as much as Maddie does are the oodles of Asians (South Koreans, it seems, for the most part) who appear to have traveled here to pay pilgrimage.  Not only did we see 5 or 6 distinct groups/individuals come to Speedy's during the hour or so we were dining/taking photographs here, but there were literally HUNDREDS of them at the Sherlock Holmes museum and gift shop at the actual 221 B Baker Street address.... just fascinating to conjecture about the draw (Maddie's research suggests that South Korea's BBC "ships" [Internet lingo for desiring two people to become a couple, for those who have not heard of "shipping" as a verb before ;)] Holmes and Watson; Maddie also ships Hatson/Wolmes (shippers always have to give their couples names), so she was happy to share this sacred space with such devoted fans.

This was a special way to start our Sherlocky day, as only the most diehard fans seek it out, unlike the actual address, which was our next destination.  Meanwhile, as you might be able to see in some of the photos, we were back to London's traditional wet, cold weather, so all of our walking tours, of which we did several, were done through puddles and in a light drizzle.   Ah London.

Maddie was sitting in the same space her beloved Benedict did - a fangirl's fantasy :)

The owners have photographs of their shop - and street - as it appears in the show (note the Baker Street sign - geography be damned!)

After lunch, we took a damp but lovely walk through this part of town, saw the hundreds of people waiting in line for Madame Trussauds (which I don't get at all) and peered into the windows of what is likely some of the best real estate in London, gorgeous townhomes overlooking Regency Park.  Just gorgeous.  When we arrived at our next destination, we found a line that was neary as long as the one for the wax museum.  Since Maddie was never sure she cared much about the "museum" (which consists of the recreation of the famous sleuth's home), we opted to forget the line and just spend some time in the gift store there.  From the basement of the gift store, you were able to get a glimpse of Holmes' study, so we were content with that.

Unfortunately, I somehow lost a group of photos from those couple of hours, including ones taken in and around the museum and at the BBC store, which was our next stop.  Luckily, Dana continued to snap with his iPhone, so here are a few of those shots.

Holmes' study

Maddie was not eager to pose with the guard dude, which was the only way to get a proper photo in front of the actual 221 B (though, she pointed out, not nearly as important as the door she had already posed in front of :)

Daniel in front of the TARDIS; BBC is quite proud of its Dr Who show

When we returned to check in to our hotel and change wet shoes for dry ones, I discovered an e-mail from our New Year's dinner spot cancelling our reservation.  Upon further investigation, I discovered several e-mails, indicating that our initial reservation (done through Top Table, England's version of Open Table) was "provisional," that the restaurant had a special menu for the night - for 105 pounds EACH!! and that if they didn't hear back within 24 hours they would cancel.  Obvioulsy, we allowed them to do just that and called an audible.

Our New Year's dinner would take place right here at our lovely Hilton, and then we would tube our way into the crazy New Year's Eve scene, which is just what we did.  Of course, since our cards needed to be "topped off," and the machine wouldn't take our credit cards, it wasn't quite as worry free as all that.  At 11:25, Dana was running to a shop changing paper for coins, which is the only thing the machines will take.  As we anxiously filled one card after the other (needing to catch a tube, then change at Victoria station to ANOTHER tube, which would get us to our Vauxhall destination, where we could emerge from underground to see the fireworks), the gentleman working the gates decided to open them a few minutes eary (London opens all gate and allows everyone to ride the tube for free from 11:45 throughout the entire night).  We dashed through the gates, down halls, upstairs and waited for the first tube to arrive.  Same thing at Victoria.  Needless to say, we had many other revelers all around us doing the same thing (along with the completely nonchalant travelers who didn't seem to take note that it was a special day).

When we arrived in Vauxhall, we were caught up in a crowd that emerged from the tube and on to the streets.  As we crossed the street and headed for the bridge, cars and trucks started honking their horns in a Happy New Year celebration.  It was quite exciting, as we managed to get to the other side and a viewing spot just as the first fireworks exploded.  Happy New Year!!!  This is one celebration we will never forget xoxo

Taking selfies with a spectacular backdrop ;)

My favorite part of the display were the Londoners all around us - singles partying together, couples celebrating their love, families with children sitting on fathers' shoulders, people covering the bridge (none of my photos came out as I wished, but I have the mental memories)