My image of the gladiator has been shaped largely by Russel Crowe's performace in Ridley Scott's Gladiator and this famous line (my blog title) he utters in the film. I share the clip with you here, though I had forgotten quite how unsparing Scott is with his depiction of the violence. After visiting the Coloseum today, I have a newfound respect for Scott's choices. While the Coloseum is, undoubtedly, an astounding feat of architecture and engineering - and a mind boggling walk through an ancient time - for me, more than anything, it is a stark reminder of how horrible people can be.
Coloseum Contemplation (a new album title for Daniel to consider ;)
As I made my way around the Coloseum, listening to the fascinating audio tour and looking at the excavated site below (where they still collect bones and other artifacts to this day), I couldn't help but think to myself, "I get surprised by the nastiness of comments on the Internet or Donald Trump's ascension despite his outward bigotry and ugliness?!" Maddie was reminded of the way producers whip up audiences for various reality television shows, manipulating events and people to get the desired results (and ratings). After spending the morning immersed in the days of early Rome, I actually found myself impressed that we've managed to remain as relatively civilized as we have.
The kids enjoying a lighter moment at the Palatino
Clearly, it was a dark way to start our second day in Rome :) Dark in mood, at least. We would have gladly taken some dark clouds to shield us from the relentlessly bright and hot sun. Though we bought tickets in advance online and got to the Coloseum by 9:00 a.m., as we intended, we were still beaten down by that hot, hot sun. By the time 11:30 rolled around, and we had covered just a fraction of the Colle Palatino, we were all in agreement that we had to throw in the towel. The fact that the gentleman who recorded the audio tour for this portion of the experience had the most boring and monotonous voice made the decision all the easier. We found a lovely little restaurant just across the street from these living artifacts, and were happily surprised when the food was actually good (when all we expected was overpriced and mediocre, which we were happy to contend with as long as we had a seat in the shade and an expensive glass of water!) Our waiter, who sang his way to and fro each table, was far more charming than the grand majority of service people we have had while dining here, but just as inattentive. One thing time in another country always does is teach (or remind) you of the things you take for granted in your own country - an impeccable service industry is definitely something America has all over Italy.
Maddie's expression says it all, as our camerierie sings his way past our table one more time.
We grabbed a cab to the Piazza della Repubblica, where we walked around a bit and sampled yet another gelato as we awaited the re-opening of the Santa Maria della Vittoria church, home of Benini's The Ecstasy of St. Theresa. It was worth the wait, as not only the famous sculpture, but the entire church, is extraordinary. Hot and exhausted, we decided to take a siesta back at the hotel before heading out for the night's visits to Piazza Navona (where we heeded Kerrie's brilliant suggestion to get Tartufo at Tre Scalini - which has been making them this good since 1946!) and the Trevi Fountain, where the people watching was every bit as wonderful as the fountain watching. Wandering the cobblestone streets of Rome at night is such a lovely experience -and perhaps should be the only way one attempts to do it during the summer months. If only every attraction were open from 6:00 p.m. - 1:00 a.m., we'd be in business!
Successful water replenishment!
The Ecstasy of St. Theresa
Despite my best efforts to make this an earlier night, it is 1:00 a.m., as I write this, and we will be getting up and out to visit the Vatican - gardens and museum - before heading out tomorrow afternoon on the "fast train" to Florence. If my photographs will cooperate, I will upload a few and get to sleep. Update - at 2 a.m., I gave up! It's now nearly 8:00 a.m. (but our American friends and family are likely soundly sleeping), and I'm about to load the last photo and post. Then, we must all find some appropriate Vatican attire that will enable us to pass muster while not passing out from this Rome heat. Arrivederci!
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