Rafting the River of No Return

On one of the signs we read at a scenic overlook, slipped in among lots of other facts was that Idaho has the best air quality in the lower 48 states.  Now, I was skeptical about how one could prove such a statement, but all you have to do is take a deep breath in to know that this place is a top contender.

The sky has been so clear, the air so crisp, and Sun Valley devoid of the bright lights of the big city that star gazing has been particularly dramatic.  Since my cameras can't begin to pick up the detail that our eyes see, I'm hopeful that we will all be able to recall in detail the drama of the night sky over our home away from home.  I once thought you had to go camping to get the true star gazing experience.  Turns out you just have to come to Idaho. :)

Yesterday was all about experiencing some of Idaho's natural beauty.  Our one hour drive to Stanley, home of White Cloud Rafting Adventures, was spectacular.  Driving with the Sawtooth Mountain Range in the distance, and, eventually, the Salmon River we would be rafting beneath us, was  stunning.  Dana kept us informed of the temperature outside, as we were all a bit apprehensive about the 40 degree water splashing/soaking us when it was almost as cold outside.  By the time we reached Stanley, the weather was perfect - high 60's, low 70's and lots of sun.

Apparently the Salmon River is also called the River of No Return because in the early days a boat was able to successfully navigate down the river but would inevitably get chewed up by the fast waters and rapids during the attempted return.  Today, we would only be navigating the Class II and III rapids that weren't quite that devastating.  Our guide, Will, a Boise native and now a student  studying biology at Lewis and Clark College in Portland, Oregon, was wonderful.  We got a boat all to ourselves, and Will gave us a few quick lessons (which we followed studiously) to avoid falling out of the boat into the cold waters, and we were off.  There were three other boats in our party, including one big family group of 14 that split into two boats.  We couldn't help but think about whether this type of trip should be one our own extended family tackles in the future.

Outfitted in our "splash jackets" and ready to take on the rapids

A delicious treat after our workout on the water

Eventually the photos of our rafting trip will be here, as the company provides a digital package upon your return.  Since you don't want your iPhone getting tossed into the Salmon River as you navigate one of the rapids, you leave all your worldly possessions behind and are, therefore, truly disconnected for the ten mile trip.  There were a few times when I wanted to "capture" the moment to remember it later, but I was mostly thankful to only worry about whether one of us would go tumbling out of the boat!  And, of course, we were all happy to be present in such blissful moments.

On the bus ride to the launch point, we saw an eagle perched on the top of a tree overlooking the river.  A few hours later, we saw the same eagle still enjoying his spot, happy to go fishing below and otherwise just enjoy that famed Idaho air, I guess.   Once on the river, we didn't spot too much wildlife, but the water proved to be wild enough.  Another guide, likely attempting a move Will contemplated but thought better of, found herself and five of her six passengers capsized.  We had just navigated that same stretch so were able to look back on them with trepidation and offer words of encouragement.  Everyone got back in the boat and a badly scraped knee appeared to be the worst of the injuries, thank goodness.

Each rapid has a colorful nickname ("Piece of Cake," "The Narrows") and equally colorful stories about people navigating them.  Will was excited that Bailey would be buying all the other guides drinks that night, since she was the only one to have a passenger (or 6!) fall out.

Between the exciting rapids was plenty of time to bask in the sun and enjoy the float, while Will shared stories about Boise, the river, and summer life in Stanley.  We learned that Carole King has a ranch on the Salmon River, though she has been trying to sell it for the better part of a decade after getting embroiled in a legal fight over public access on a road that runs through her property.  Made us reconsider the whole "summer, spring, winter, or fall, all you have to do is call" promise.  Those who now can't use the road  (which must ultimately lead to a bridge) have to resort to using a trolley to get to the other side of the river.

Our drive back to Ketchum was just as beautiful, and this time we stopped at the scenic overlook to read some of the history and more properly take in the view below.  This is home of the headwater of the Salmon River, which ultimately dumps into Snake River, which finally empties into the Pacific.  To see the tiny beginning of the river we had been navigating for ten miles just hours earlier was another amazing reminder of just how powerful and surprising nature can be.

Back home, we got ourselves all gussied up and headed into Ketchum for dinner.   While the restaurant was lovely, Daniel, especially, but the rest of us, too, are ready to take a day off from "foodie" fare.  He declared that he has come to distrust a restaurant that has a small and/or paper menu.  The Town Square Tavern had both.  Still, Maddie's Instagram followers will note that our starter of fries (because we must sample a potato product during each meal) earned Maddie's highest rating yet.  The only reason it didn't earn a 10 was that she's leaving room just in case...

We returned after dark, but I'm leaving these last two photos, so you can imagine - and we can remember - what we look up at from our porch.  With the little sliver of a moon providing no competition to the stars, it is quite a stunning way to say goodnight to Idaho before turning in.