Today we explored Harper's Ferry National Park, an area considered so valuable during the Civil War that it changed hands 5 times. With its proximity to both the Potomac and Shenandoah Rivers, as well as its location in what is now Northeast West Virginia, not to mention its historical significance with John Brown's raid being one of the final factors making the Civil War inevitable, it is easy to understand why both sides believed it was key to their victory.
Visiting in 2021, just over a year after George Floyd's murder led to a summer of Black Lives Matter protests, and fewer than three weeks after the removal of Confederate statues in Charlottesville, Virginia, that, in part, led to that tragic summer in 2019, it's difficult not to consider this area of the country Ground Zero for the country's reconciliation with its racist history.
It was fascinating to learn (or be reminded) of the controversial role John Brown played as a white abolitionist who was on the right side of history from a moral standpoint, but died at the gallows having been convicted of treason for attacking his country. It is all too easy to imagine any number of the January 6th insurrectionists coming to Harper's Ferry for inspiration, just as it is heartening to learn that many Black community groups have made pilgrimages here and prominent Black authors and leaders have recognized the importance of what Brown attempted to do here.
There were also deer. ;)
Our day started off with breakfast at the lovely Bavarian Inn, where we watched a cardinal, West Virginia's state bird, play in the garden just outside our window. That seemed a lovely way to begin our first full day in the state. The beautiful rolling country roads we had taken the previous night in pitch darkness, we were now able to enjoy as we made our way to the National Park. Since Dana was now driving, I was able to nerd out, as I'm wont to do, to the intriguing facts now immediately available on the Internet, that make these road trips so rewarding.
When we arrived to upper Harper's Ferry "Town" (where there is not only no town to speak of, but even the Visitor Center remains closed), we made the tough decision whether to shuttle down the mountain (a 5 minute ride that would assure we would arrive in time for the noon tour, which, we did not know at the time, was the sole tour for the day) or to take the more strenuous and scenic 1.7 mile hike down the mountain. Since hiking was among our goals for the day, this one was purported to be lovely and we figured we would very much intend to shuttle back UP the mountain, hiking time it was!
Of course, if you've ever attempted to hike down a sometimes steep incline, you know that speed is not an option. Once Dana reconciled to the fact that we would not make it by noon, we all enjoyed the hike, the fauna, the sounds of nature, and, finally, the little deer family we encountered as we made our way to Lower Town. At one point, once we'd reached the main road, there was a detour, and we were directed to the "Virginian Trail," which hugged both the Shenandoah and the railroad tracks that parallel it. This was one of the earliest trails through these woods, so it was fun to envision the many people who had walked that path before us.
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| Maddie contemplates the "psychological" midpoint of the Appalachian Trail |
On the street into town, everything has been preserved and enables you to walk through history. One turn uphill, and you are in a charming shopping and dining district, with distinctive stores (Tru Treats, part candy shop/part candy museum and Vintage Lady were are two favorites), a couple of lodging options, and, shocking to me, quite a few private homes. I even later found one advertised on VRBO! So much for shuttles and hikes! We didn't at the time realize we could just drive on down and park as if we were heading to a store, but what fun is that?!
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| One private resident on the right side of today's history |
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| Love the sign, and glad we kept walking! |
We drove around to see some of the other important parts of Harper's Ferry, such as the Murphy-Chambers Farm and Bolivar Heights, where some of the fiercest battles took place to keep or take hold of this strategic area of importance to the Civil War. It was Lee's victory at Bolivar Heights that enabled him to take his troops to Antietam, our next site to visit.
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| Maddie and I were the only ones willing to make yet one more trek, so we took this for the boys! ;P |
After a tiring but rewarding day exploring our nation's troubled history, we hit the Infinity pool overlooking the Potomac river below to cool off and unwind before getting ready for dinner at The Press Room, former home of the city's newspaper, where we dined on some of those grilled peaches grown by a West Virginian farmer and had provocative conversations. As I stood in the middle of a desolate street after dinner, I contemplated the fascinating contradictions of a place like Shepherdstown, where even a sophisticated "foodie" can be satisfied yet you can stand in the middle of their main street at 9:30 PM and not see a car for... maybe not hours, but a long damn time. I, for one, am a fan.
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